A short stay along a coastline not too far away
A trip to Onrus had been ‘unofficially’ in the works for over a year.
A group of us friends needed a weekend out of the city and away from the office to break the burnout spell so many people experience come the final few months of the year. Nicole and Adrean, had a family home on the Onrus coast and we felt this was the perfect distance for a quick getaway. Nestled just before Hermanus, Onrus is a family favourite for those seeking a more laid back, quieter holiday experience than its neighbour. This was exactly what we were after. It was far enough to feel like we weren’t in Cape Town anymore but close enough to make the two nights stay worth the two hour drive.
One of my friends Joel, had brought me in months ago to help him find the place and form a plan for him to pop the question to his girlfriend of eight years, Michelle. This was the perfect opportunity.
Out of the city and into the silence
We departed shortly after 3:00pm on the Friday - we wanted to skip the notorious Somerset West traffic weekend travellers knew all about. The weather forecast was looking good and with Table Mountain in the rearview mirror, we were all ready and riddled with excitement.
I had driven Sir Lowry’s Pass many times before but despite this, each time our car popped it’s head up and over the winding road, I always felt a little like Lucy from Narnia as she stepped out of the wardrobe into a whole new world. Journeying from the sky scraper sea scapes of Somerset West and the wonderful wine farms that surrounded us daily, our car was swallowed up by the mountainous greenery that would accompany us for the remainder of the drive.
The landscape seemed almost untouched. With endless rolling rocks guiding the picturesque path onwards, I was conflicted as to whether or not I should bask in the moment or snap some pics to remember it for longer. Listening to the Mumford & Sons collab with Beatenberg as we glided down the roads made our movie moment even more cinematic.
The only thing that broke our attention was the Google Maps tannie announcing we were fast approaching Peregrine.
Pitstop at Peregrine
An ever-growing farm stall that no one ever choses to not pull into. If the famous Peregrine Pies aren’t enough to tantalise your tastebuds (highly unlikely), there’s an array of other delectable treats you can choose from: freshly baked breads, homemade family meals, colourful organic produce, a coffeeshop and the best biltong for miles!
The store is busy almost every hour of the day but the place is run like clock-work so you can be in and out on your way again in no time.
En route to Onrus
Back on the road after a quick bite and bathroom break, we continued East and out out of the mountains to meet the coastline. About 40 minutes later, we began to see roadsigns with our destination stamped to them. Onrusrivier, or Onrus, is a settlement in the Overberg District Municipality.
It’s a tiny town - mostly Afrikaans - whose inhabitants are either young families or older folk. Its clean, well maintained gardens and roads lead to humble homes that have stood there for many years and seem to stay in the family as they get passed down as a sort of heirloom.
The name Onrus means 'restless', referring to the pounding of the surf on the rocky coast, but arriving at our home for the weekend, that sentiment couldn’t be further from what we saw: calm, clear waters barely breaking the silence of such a sanctuary.
The sun was setting by the time our bags were unpacked and so naturally we basked in the opportunity for photographs as we sipped away at well-deserved G&T’s. The house was right on the rocks with unspoilt views of the setting sun and a colour palette, some shades none of us had come across before.
Literally a picture perfect way to kickstart what was to be a very special weekend.
If you don’t have any family or friends in the area and are looking for B&B’s, here are a few of my top picks:
Begin the day the right way
The Saturday morning called for a quick dip in one of the rock pools mother nature had so kindly crafted out for me just in front of the house. The water was warmer than expected but it still woke me up and made for a refreshing start to the day.
Onrus has plenty rock pools that are enjoyable for the whole family. Pack a picnic and find the perfect spot to park off and spend the day alongside the water looking for colour fish trapped by the tide. The pools get a little busier during the South African spring months as locals and tourists flock to the shores for the renowned wale watching spectacle the region is so loved for. The migrating giants can be seen from almost anywhere, boat, land or on the rocks, so make sure to get out slightly earlier to secure a good seat for the show.
Take the beaten track
The beginning of the beautiful costal path crossed the side of the house and Michelle, Joel and I decided to take a trot and grab some coffee whilst the rest of the party started on breakfast. The concrete path is old but very much still intact and weaves around the shoreline and shrubbery making for a magnificent stroll. With each step, we encountered little bricks with names and dates on; a memorial of those who once called this place home and walked this path too. Everyone and their dog (literally) was out and about but since the town is so small, this wasn’t a crowded experience. I was amazed by how so many people greeted each other by name as they passed one another - proof that this really was a community of people that were close enough to be family.
A small pink coffee truck broke the blue of the sea and sky and marked the end of the 5km path by a popular tidal pool. This spot was the Onrus version of a Saturday’s farmer’s market; muffins, fudge, breakkie rolls and the friendliest of baristas who no-doubt had been there every Saturday for decades.
I sipped slowly on my coffee as we made our way back toward breakfast, and I watched Joel begin to become ever more anxious about what rest of the day had in store…
Wine & dine at Benguela Cove
A short 10 minute drive out of Onrus and we were met with the striking white walls and green grass framing the well-known wine farm. It’s popular rose is a favourite for many South African’s and it’s immaculate indoor-outdoor spaces promises an enjoyable dinning experience during any of the Western Cape’s seasons.
If you’re looking for a place to graze the knee, Benguela really does offer you anything and everything you’ll need for the occasion.
Nicole (being the party-planning queen she was) had organised with the restaurant for us to sit in a sectioned off corner with uninterrupted views of the bay and surrounding mountains. A space where we could celebrate privately. Everything was now in place.
The staff were incredible and of course were in on the secret so they made sure to keep the drinks flowing and the cheese boards full. A shout out to the amazing Hein, the manager and our go-to guy for this all.
The weather was very kind to us - 29 degrees in fact and despite there being a breeze, Joel had already sweated through his linen shirt by the time we got to our table…
The main event
Michelle was actually the one who suggested we take a walk to see the grounds and snap some pics. This was the cue we had been waiting for and so we jumped at this suggestion. Arriving at an open area, we took shifts taking photos until it was Joel and Michelle’s turn.
After a few classic couple photos, Joel took a step back and stepped down onto one knee.”I don’t want to overthink what i’m meant to say; so Michelle Fourie, will you marry me?”
Her ‘Yes’ had almost everyone in tears as we witnessed a moment that we had collectively been planning for over a year. It couldn’t have gone any better.
Our fabulous waiter was already at our table by the time we had returned, welcoming us back and beginning the official champagne popping! That newly-engaged glow was already setting in for the happy couple.
Other incredible spots worth stopping at if you’re peckish:
Embrace an evening show.
Being in such a beautiful place, how can anyone not sit back and take in the glory of a sunset? An opportunity that we all get every evening to stop what we’re doing and experience a daily occurrence in a new and spectacular way. For any getaway, at least one sundowner should be on the list somewhere.
We continued the celebrations back at the house (and well into the night). Sitting out on the front lawn, meat on the braai, music in the background and all of our eyes peeled to the sky, we sipped away on Phi’s famous cocktails and took in the final rays of a very memorable day.
🍸 Phi’s cocktail: 2 shots of vodka, cucumber sprite, blue berries and a few mint leaves.
Although the name does mean ‘restless’, Onrus should be front of mind as a place to venture to if you’re in need of some rest. With the laid-back way of life, family orientated activities, local restaurants and old paved walking paths that are surrounded by nature, your body and brain will no doubt find the solace we all so desperately need from time to time.
Sometimes all it takes is a day or two in a new place, where our senses can feast on new things and take a break from the familiarities of our routines. For our group at least, the reset button had been pressed and we could return back to the city the following day with a spring in our step and the energy to push through the remainder of the year.
I was asked to write this article for CarFling and so in wrapping this piece up and relating it back to the reason someone would be on this website, it’s not hard to see how none of this could’ve been possible without the vessel we all used to get there. Cars are actually so underrated. They’re much more than just a mechanism to get from Point A to Point B; they allow us to see more, do more and feel new, wonderful things with wonderful people.
On this weekend away, our cars let us experience and share a milestone moment in the lives of our special friends. A weekend that Joel & Michelle will tell their children and relive over and over in their minds. Sure, their BMW won’t be front and centre of those mental recollections but I guess that adds to the magic of these machines - they play such a vital role in so many stories yet never hog the spot light. They’re the silent hero, whose work behind the scenes is what ensures the show always goes on.
So in closing, a toast, to friends who are now fiance's and to cars who carry us along the road of life.
